It has been said of me that I can be a bit of a mad scientist with my experiments on my own skin. I love trying to push products to their ultimate levels of performance. Active ingredients like retinol, vitamin C and hydroxy acids have always captivated me. You may not be aware that, because of stability and compatibility issues, these amazing ingredients tend to play much better alone than together.
Recently I was intrigued by Dermalogica’s claim of having successfully incorporated their toughest age-fighting products into one skincare routine. And so, I have put my face on the line, so to speak, in the quest for more youthful and vibrant skin for us all.
The starting point: I am a 46-year-old female with truly groomed and nurtured skin. I have practised an exceptional routine for more than 20 years. It is fair to say that I often receive compliments on how good my skin looks. That said, I have noticed some changes in the condition of my skin as I have aged. I now notice visible areas of pigmentation, a few lines on my forehead and I have observed my nasiolabial folds becoming more defined as time passes.
The experiment: To my normal skincare routine I added Dermalogica’s NEW Biolumin-C Serum morning and night and their AGE Smart Overnight Retinol Repair at night. I would cleanse, tone, apply essence and then serum. During the day I would follow with eye cream, moisturiser and lip treatment (see below for a full list of products). At night I would do my normal prep then use Biolumin-C Serum followed by the AGE Smart Overnight Retinol Repair (with 0.5% retinol). I followed them with eye cream and lip treatment.
The breakthrough is that this routine combines highly effective ingredients that normally can’t be used together. The Biolumin-C contains vitamin C and hydroxy acids and, as the name suggests, AGE Smart Overnight Retinol Repair contains retinol. In non-technical terms a lot is happening within the skin.
Retinol helps to restructure the skin and improves cell turnover and functionality, decreasing lines and wrinkles, and improving firmness. Hydroxy acid improves cell turnover by removing dead cells, which improves texture and fullness. Vitamin C inhibits melanin production and increases the viability of collagen and elastin, reducing pigmentation and increasing luminosity and clarity, while strengthening firmness and elasticity. That’s why I’ve dubbed this powerful combination a ‘reversal of fortune’.
Can I really expect to see significant changes on a well groomed, no let’s say it, a highly groomed skin? The answer apparently a resounding ‘YES!’.
The experience: After four days of performing the routine described above I noticed some sensitisation in my skin. It became tender, tingly and slightly pink when cleansed etc. With this much activity going on in my skin this was absolutely as I expected. Just think about how emotional and sensitive you can get when you are under pressure in your life. My skin must have been feeling a bit like that.
After four days I chose to take a night off the new regime and instead used a nourishing mask and my basic night routine. I noticed that my skin was really absorbing everything I put on it. During the day I added a dry oil over the top for extra nourishment. On Day 5 I resumed the active routine and for another day I kept using the dry oil during the day as well. By Day 7 my skin had recalibrated and I no longer experienced any sensitivity or dryness, therefore, I didn’t feel the need to continue to add the extra nourishment of the dry oil during the day.
My skin was feeling taut and full. At first my pigmentation became more noticeable but that soon disappeared and I could see the clarity I was hoping for. Bear in mind, this was only 10 days after beginning the active skincare routine.
My lines have already lessened and my nasiolabial folds appear less deep and wide. There is a change in my skin’s texture and how it feels when I apply my foundation. I also have noticed a firming effect along my jawline. So, am I expecting more improvements as I continue this routine? YES!
I will keep using the active routine until I have finished all the products. I will probably keep using this routine, possibly upgrading to a 1% retinol product. However, true to my mad-scientist reputation, I want to continue to experiment with other options.
You should try this type of active skincare routine if:
• you are concerned about lines and wrinkles
• you are concerned about lack of firmness and elasticity
• you are concerned about pigmentation and sun damage
• you want to control the signs of ageing on your skin.
Don’t try this routine if:
• you have a fragile sensitive skin
• you dislike experiencing sensations and activity on your skin
• you are constantly exposed to UV light.
I really wish I had taken photos; I just get too excited to get on with my experimentation!
Anna’s full list of products:
[D] = Dermalogica / [L] = La Prairie
[L] Purifying Cream Cleanser,
[L] Cellular Softening and Balancing Lotion,
[L] Skin Caviar Essence-In-Lotion,
[D] AGE Smart Biolumin-C Serum,
[L] Platinum Rare Cellular Eye Cream,
[L] White Caviar Crème Extraordinaire,
[D] AGE Smart Overnight Retinol Repair,
[L] Cellular Swiss Ice Crystal Dry Oil,
[L] Skin Caviar Luxe Sleep Mask,
[D] Daily Microfollant (only once in 10 days),
[L] Anti-Aging Eye and Lip Perfection à Porter.